Here Be Dragons

There was much discussion of where we should head in the Exumas…a string of cays (pronounced “keys”) running from just southwest of Eleuthera, between the Toe of the Ocean and Exuma Sound. I voted for Allen Cays, but it seemed that might be difficult to get to. I had my reasons. I might have pouted.

In the end, it didn’t seem any better or worse a place to go, so off we set, sails up, for another longish haul.

The Allen Cays are three little islands, Allen Cay, SW Allen Cay, and Leaf Cay, as well as many smaller cays and “rocks”. The books said it was a cruisers delight. After a long day of sailing, we arrived in a little rain shower (the first, I believe, of our trip). It washed our decks clear of salt and graced us with a rainbow or two. Then we had our first experience of dropping anchor. There were several other boats nestled in among the cays. Much calculation of tide and such went on. We wanted not end up high and dry at low tide, and to have to wait six hours to refloat our little home.

Our timing could not have been better. The drama of anchoring (done with brilliant efficiency by the captain and our gallant crew), clean up, storage, and tidying was all done just as the sun did its daily plop below the horizon. We enjoyed a lovely SRP, a delicious dinner, listened to a Django Reinhart CD, and toddled off to our berths.

In the morning, at about 8 a.m., we launched both kayaks and the dinghy. Such excitement. Frisha and I took the kayaks to the nearby sandy beach on Leaf Cay, while Whit came by snorkel. WW opted to stay on Django and play his guitar.

There, arriving slowly to warm in the sun, were the reason I’d wanted to come. The magnificent, rare rock iguanas. I kept my kayak just offshore and watched them blinking lazily. One huge one must have measured at least a metre from stem to stern.

Later, Frisha and I went onto the beach where lovely lizard trails made fascinating patterns in the sand. More iguanas kept appearing. One came and stared pointedly at us. It was gorgeous, with a white throat, its skin like a particularly adept artist had thrown on camouflage colours in a perfect pattern.

We found a path through to the other side of the cay and spent a pleasant half hour snorkelling. We found wrasse and sea worms and a baby grouper. Frisha touched its tail and it was gone like a shot.

Later, as we prepared to leave, a tour boat from Nassau arrived and unloaded about 30 people on “our” beach. The iguanas may be slow, but they’re not stupid. An army of them were waiting to pose for photos and receive treats. And we’d been wondering what in heck they ate…

On our way to the Allen Cays, we caught this little fellow.
Our first one was bigger. Honest. As we approached the cays,
I asked if we should reel in the fishing line. I was told we had plenty of time.
So, of course, we didn't and WW spent a lovely half hour
unfouling the starboard propeller.